We’re excited to have Patrick Moriarty all the way from the UK speaking at our up coming guild meeting. Patrick is founder and textile designer of Paisley Power. His designs have been bought by many top companies worldwide including H&M, TopShop, John Lewis, Peak Performance, Intersport, BCBG, Calvin Klein, DVFurstenburg, Bestseller. He's also been commissioned to create designs for haute couture: Josephus Thimister, Jan Timiniau.
Join us for an evening of inspiration as Patrick shares his in- depth knowledge about the history of paisley and get a glimpse of his process for creating his intricate, paisley designs.
When: October 13, 2016 7:00-9:00 pm PST
Where: Finnish Hall, 1970 Chestnut St, Berkeley, CA 94702
Fee: members free, drop ins $10
Note: this meeting will not be broadcast. Meeting notes and photos will be shared on our private SPDG Facebook page.
Guild Member Lotti Brown posted this book review on her blog, and generously allowed us share it here. We've added links to some of the design movements and names; interesting to see how many of these designers are still going strong! Thanks so much Lotti!
On looking through the book, my fears of eighties fashion faux-pas were, of course, eased - a combination of my own (clearly poor) fashion choices as a teen, and Marnie Fogg showcasing the crème-de-la-crème of eighties fashion prints.
In the introduction, Fogg describes how eighties fashions were loud – bright, bold and ostentatious – looking to new ideas and creativity to create the patterns that the public lapped up.
In Britain, London started to be seen as the centre of the ‘designer decade’ with eccentric and avant-garde ideas, combined with smaller-scale ‘craft’ print studios.
Italy produced the ‘Memphis’ design movement, which had a huge influence on the decade. Surface pattern design broke rules on colour and ‘good taste’ with bold, vibrant colours, and energetic, dissonant pattern and layout.
Fogg describes how the eighties was the decade for ‘celebration of excess’ and ‘unparalleled creativity’.
This section showcases a collection of bold, colourful and abstract prints, with texture given equal importance to colour and form.
Designers experimented with mark-making, and creative printing, and interdisciplinary design techniques.
My favourites in this style are the simple, textural, and hand-painted Liberty geometrics, with a more muted colour palette.
The eighties woman was powerful and glamorous. Her clothes were bold, colorful and ostentatious, with trompe l’oeil printed cords, tassels, and trims being very popular. Animal prints also helped to display a feminine power.
Aspirational occasion-wear was created with lavish, large-size pattern and embellishment, by design houses such as Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Adolfo, James Galanos, Karl Lagerfield, Gucci, Coco Chanel.
To be honest, this isn’t my favorite look, but I’m quite fond of the colorful, large-scale, patterned florals of Furphy Simpson, shown in the book.
Catch the Wave
Active wear became a business in itself in the 80s, as the public concentrated on creating the ‘body-beautiful’ and ‘feeling the burn’. The new popularity of the fabric Elastene or Spandex (such as Lycra) gave new opportunities to fashion print designers.
Surf, skateboard, and rave cultures influenced the popularity of bright and neon colours, tie-dye, and the ubiquitous ‘smiley face’ icon.
Tropical motifs were popular, often combined with the new trend for hand-drawn and hand-painted textures.
I love the richly patterned designs of the ‘Cote d’Azure’ furnishing fabric by Collier Campbell (shown in the book) which I feel has rather a beautiful, retro-inspired, 50s feel – and definitely a cool Riviera style.
Fogg writes that the fashionable eighties alternative to power-dressing was an elegant, avant-garde Italian label, Etro. Paisley patterns were their recognised look.
Other cultures and folklore began to be the inspiration for a growing alternative style, with eclectic tropical florals, animals and birds, in bold, simplified, and stylised juxtaposition.
I really love some of these designs, particularly those by designer Natalie Gibson, with fun and colourful, tropical motifs against dramatic backgrounds.
As the decade went on, the wild colours of the earlier years developed into simpler, two-colour prints, such as in the work of design partnership Furphy Simpson.
Fogg writes that classical Greek and Roman art were given a new look by eighties designers, such as Sue Timney, Grahame Fowler, and English Eccentrics. Neo-classical statues, maps, and architectures featured in the designs.
Colours tended to be more subdued than the wilder Urban Jungle, Glamazon and Neon Blitz styles.
Designers such as English Eccentrics also began looking back for historical inspiration, at medieval heraldic designs, architecture, and stained glass.
The very popular appearance of Halley’s Comet in 1986 inspired a new interest in the night sky, which was reflected in fashion prints at the time.
Georgina Von Etzdorf created artistic designs with rich colours, textures, and a baroque style in abstract form, concentrating, as many designers do these days, on the craft process of the design. The designs illustrating the book, by Georgina Von Etzdorf, are some of my very favourite designs of the decade, for the beautiful movement and energy in the swirling, colourful shapes, with surprising detail and texture in the complex designs.
As the eighties isn’t my favorite decade, I wasn’t expecting to be very impressed by the designs in this book – but I was wrong – and I very much enjoyed it, in spite of myself!
It’s true, there were designs I wasn’t so keen on, (but aren’t there in any decade?) but there were also plenty, too, that I really loved.
Reading more about the influences of the decade gave me a better appreciation of the design developments and inspirations of that period.
I really enjoyed seeing how innovations from eighties design have a bearing, still, on our design techniques of today:
the growing interest in the craft of design, the experimentation in the design process itself, and a new focus away from pure digital design - into including hand-drawn or hand-painted elements, and textures created from ‘real world’ multi-media techniques.
Of course, many eighties-style motifs and design styles are also popular at the moment, with abstract, textural prints, bold colours, and tropical prints all being very popular now, as well as a renewed interest in the patterns and influences of different cultures which, these days, are seen in juxtaposition with each other, rather than purely as separate trends.
Sarah & Ruby
"we adore handmade cement tile and we were thrilled to design with this artisan process in mind. we played with smooth-lined, graphic patterns as well as more organic, unexpected motifs inspired by nature. our collection is bold and modern, embracing softened geometric shapes and abstracted flora." - sarah & ruby
"This show, which runs through mid-August, formally launches a relationship we hope will grow through the years. Peace Industry rugs and Dym | california textiles are a natural fit, sharing a love of color, texture, and sustainability."
Liberty London produces some of the most stunning and timeless surface pattern designs to be seen and purchased by all. I came across this great video of Liberty's Design Studio behind the scenes. Each designer talks about their inspiration and the pattern they created for the 2012 line.
To view the video for yourself click the liberty box below.
We last saw Bridget Kelly of The Little Acorn just over two years ago. As a designer, and buyer, she was a wealth of information about trade shows, and what buyers want to see there. With designs shown on fabric rather than paper, and including patchwork, embroidery and trims, Bridget's advice can elevate any designer's portfolio to something that is sure to catch the buyers' questing eyes.
At our May 5th meeting Bridget Kelly will give advice on the creative process of building a collection, from initial idea to the retail floor. As she did last time, Bridget will bring examples sure to inspire you to your next collection.
Please note: Due to a scheduling conflict, this meeting is a week earlier than originally scheduled. Otherwise, it's still at the Berkeley Finnish Hall. This meeting will be available for viewing by members on Periscope.
Members in the News: Jennifer Holbrook, Odessa Begay & Sarah York; Solvejg Makaretz & Beth Schneider at Surtex
In July 2015 we mentioned that Jennifer Holbrook has designs licensed to Magic Murals. In the film "Miracles From Heaven" the mural appears in an exam room scene, on a cabinet. Pretty cool, Jennifer! You can keep up with Jennifer's latest design projects on her website, JGHolbrookDesign.com
Sarah York has hatched a project with Elmwood Brand, creating packaging for a trio of Tesco Finest Easter eggs. The UK grocer has built a reputation for their annual limited edition eggs, having previously won Good Housekeeping's "Best Easter Egg" two years in a row! But who cares about the chocolate; look at Sarah's beautiful abstract paintings on those packages! Keep up with Sarah's career and latest work at SarahYorkDesigns.com
Solvejg Makaretz has announced plans to introduce her Tröskö brand to Surtex, coming up May 15-17, 2016 at Jacob Javitz center in New York. We're sure Solvejg's crisp fresh designs will make a splash with buyers. Solvejg looks forward to meeting other guild members at the show! You can see her work at TroskoDesign.com. Be sure to visit Solvejg at booth 466.
Our next guild meeting Thursday, February 11th, features San Francisco based illustrator, print maker and surface designer Jen Hewett.
Jen will be showing examples of her boldly saturated hand-printed designs on bags and apparel.
Learn about her on-line 2-day class, and live 1-day class in block printmaking in association with the Handcraft Studio School in Emeryville. (Go to the Handcraft Studio School website, and you'll quickly find that Jen's are the only classes that are sold out three months in advance!)
This is where I met Jen, and I know you will love to meet her too. She's positive, enthusiastic, encouraging, full of ideas and understands the artist's way. Bring your questions to engage with our creative and business savvy guest!
Do you have surface
pattern design related news, information, or tips to share? We want to hear from you!